For the Love of Pizza: Halifax’s Best
Great artisanal pizza is an art form, combining the finest ingredients, expert technique, and a passion for perfection. For me, the foundation of any remarkable pizza lies in its crust. Good pizza dough is made from high-quality flour, water, yeast, and salt, allowed to ferment slowly, often for 2-3 days at a low temperature. This process helps develop a complex flavor and a chewy, airy texture, essential for an exceptional base. Great pizza makers take pride in their fermentation process. Once baked, the crust should be sturdy but not hard, flexible but not flimsy.
The sauce is another critical component. Made from ripe, fresh tomatoes, often San Marzano, and simple seasonings like sea salt, fresh basil, and a touch of garlic. To be honest, some of the best sauces are little more than crushed tomatoes. The sauce should be vibrant and slightly sweet, complementing the other ingredients without overpowering them, and vice versa, the sauce should not be overtaken by the toppings.
Cheese quality can make or break an artisanal pizza. Personally, I love the simple creaminess of fresh mozzarella, but a good pizza can be made from simply well-made mozzarella (not pre-grated) along with a sprinkling of aged cheeses like Parmigiano Reggiano or Pecorino Romano, both of which can add a depth of flavour and a delightful umami finish.
Toppings are where individuality comes into play, but I favor restraint rather than overindulgence. The simple addition of high-quality, fresh, and often locally sourced ingredients like heirloom tomatoes, locally cured meats, fresh herbs, and seasonal vegetables ensure each bite is a harmonious blend of flavors and textures.
Finally, baking in a wood-fired oven at high temperatures gives artisanal pizza its characteristic blistered, slightly charred crust, and perfectly melted toppings. This traditional method imparts a smoky flavor and a crisp, yet tender texture that is the hallmark of great artisanal pizza. The end result should be a pizza with a firm, sturdy but not inflexible crust, with a nice balance of cheese, a present and slightly sweet tomato sauce and if toppings are added, they should be flavorful but not overpowering.
Halifax’s 4 Best Artisanal Pizza Spots
Salvatore’s Pizzaiolo Trattoria salvatorespizza.ca 5541 Young Street, Halifax
Lou Pécou Pizzeria lou-pecou.ca 5567 Cunard Street, Halifax
Yeah Yeahs Pizza yeahyeahspizza.com 66 Ochterloney Street, Dartmouth and 2983 Oxford Street, Halifax
Tomavino’s Pizza tomavinos.ca 1113 Marginal Road, Halifax
For the Love of Pizza: 4 Red Wines to Pair with Thin Crust
It should come as no surprise that the best pizza pairings, at least in my mind, are Italian red wines. Less so, of course, for pizza topped with white sauce or no sauce at all. Surprisingly, for those without tomato sauce, I often recommend Traditional Method sparkling wines such as Champagne, Franciacorta, or Nova Scotia-made versions. However, for traditional tomato and mozzarella thin crust pizza, the best wines tend to be light to medium-bodied, slightly tangy (as most Italian reds are) and not overly tannic.
Frappato
Also known as Frappato di Vittoria, this grape varietal grown in Sicily has historically been blended with grapes such as Nero D’Avola or Nerello Mascalese. On its own, the grape produces wines with fresh floral and red berry aromas. The palate is light to medium-bodied and super fresh. Check out my ‘Wine of the Week’ pick for Tenute Orestiadi Frappato from Westside Beer Wine and Spirits in Clayton Park, Halifax.
Barbera D’Asti
Between Barbera D’Asti and Barbera D’Alba (both from Piemonte in Northern Italy), Asti versions tend to be fruitier, tangier, and often made with less oak influence. Great all-purpose and very food-friendly red wines. Check out Michele Chiarlo Barbera D’Asti from Bishop’s Cellar.
Chianti
While Chianti Classico, Chianti Classico Riserva, and the Sangiovese exclusive wines of Brunello di Montalcino are unquestionably Tuscany’s best Sangiovese-based reds, for pizza I prefer the simplicity of a good basic Chianti. With cherry-like fruit and some herbal notes, these fresh and vibrant red wines have enough tang to cut through the fattiness of the cheese of pizza but never overwhelm or cover up the flavors. Take a chance on Piccini Chianti Riserva from Harvest Wines and Spirits.
Lambrusco
The frizzante (lightly sparkling) wines of Emilia-Romagna are increasingly of better quality and tend to be drier than in the past. A perfect match to pizza, especially if the pizza has a little Prosciutto di Parma and Parmigiano Reggiano, both ingredients also from Emilia-Romagna. A great value choice is Chiarli Vecchi Modena Lambrusco di Sorbara from Bishop’s Cellar.