Oysters, like lobster, were once considered poor people’s food.
Over time, the lowly oyster graduated from seaside sustenance to white linen standard. An order of a dozen oysters is now more often used as a sign of wealth and decadence rather than a desire to explore the provenance and unique character oysters offer.
Once smothered in bright red cocktail sauce, as so often done, oysters lose their sense of terroir – or, in the case of seafood, their ‘merroir’ character. Merroir is a recently introduced term describing how the location of an oyster bed can be reflected in the unique taste of mollusc itself.
As the fascination with white linen restaurants fades and the rise of farm or sea to table restaurants rises, the provenance of seafood is more top of mind. One company that understands the importance of the who and where of seafood is Afishionado, a modern-style fishmonger located in Bedford.
Afisionado celebrates local seafood, adding something that was missing from the marketplace….a place where you can come learn stories about the fishermen who drive our economy….in local food, often there is not a lot of storytelling about those who work in our oceans.
HOW TO SHUCK OYSTERS
1. Wash your hands before starting.
2. Place oyster cup side down in the middle of a folded dishcloth and hold in position with your hand.
3. With your other hand, place the tip of the shucker’s blade in the hinge of the oyster.
Note: it’s not about the force but finding the right spot. Once you’ve found the natural divide between the top and bottom shell, wiggle your shucker with a little more force.
4. Once you feel the blade enter the oyster, turn it 90 degrees. This will open the oyster.
5. Pick up the oyster with your hand. Disconnect the top of the oyster from the shell by running the blade of the shucker between the shells.This will disconnect the upper part of the adductor muscle hold the oyster together.
6. Cut the bottom part of adductor muscle to remove the meat from the lower shell. Repeat until all oysters are shucked.
Note: If you break off a little shell while shucking, drain off a little liquid and the shell will come with it.
Pro Tip: Store your oysters cup side down to prevent the oysters from opening. Also, don’t store oysters in a closed container.
Shuck and savour: New ways to enjoy oysters
So now you know how to shuck an oyster, it’s time to enjoy them. While oysters are traditionally served raw, on the half shell, they do not have to be limited to being served with lemon wedges and store-bought hot sauce.
I like serving mine with a classic mignonette (diced shallot, red wine vinegar, and sugar), a European-style salsa verde (puree of parsley, garlic, lemon, capers, and sardines), or even a good homemade cocktail sauce (ketchup and prepared horseradish).
I also like frying oysters. One of my very favourite ways to panko-crusting and frying them. I hope you enjoy my interpretation of an oyster po’boy sandwich, and fried oysters with ginger cucumber relish.
Open Face Oyster Po’Boy
4 Servings
12 oysters, shucked
1/2 cup seasoned flour
1 egg + 1 tbsp water, beaten
3/4 cup panko
Fresh thyme (optional)
Vegetable oil
4 slices Parisian baguette, toasted
Roasted garlic aioli
Microgreens, for garnish
Lemon wedges
Directions: Place flour, egg wash and panko in individual bowls. Add a little more flavour by adding fresh thyme to your panko but consider this an option, not a rule. One by one, dip an oyster in flour, then egg wash, then cover in panko. Repeat until all oysters are crusted with panko. Place a deep-sided pan over medium-high heat. Add enough oil to cover the bottom of the pan. When oil begins to smoke, add the oysters. Fry them until golden brown on each side. Remove from pan and set on a paper towel to drain excess oil. Place a tablespoon of aioli on a slice of baguette. Top with three oysters and microgreens. Squeeze a lemon wedge over top and season with salt. Repeat. To make the aioli, first puree one clove roasted garlic, one egg yolk and one tablespoon lemon juice until well combined. Slowly whisk in one cup of olive oil. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
Oysters with Cucumber Ginger Relish
4 Servings
4 tbsp rice wine vinegar 4 tablespoons water 1/4 cup white sugar 1 clove garlic, minced 1 tablespoon of pickled ginger, minced 1 cucumber, finely chopped 1/8 cup finely minced red onion 12 Nova Scotia oysters 1/2 cup flour Egg wash (2 eggs whisked with 1 tablespoon water) 3/4 cup panko Vegetable oil
Directions: Put the vinegar, water and sugar in a pan. Bring to a boil, stirring to ensure sugar dissolves and remove immediately. Once cool, add garlic, ginger, and red onion. Set aside. Wash the oysters in cool running water and scrub the shell with a soft brush. Shuck the oysters, removing the muscle attaching oyster to shell. Dip oysters in flour, then egg wash and finally panko. Heat oil in deep pot until 375 F. Fry oysters in hot oil until golden brown. To serve top each oyster with a tablespoon of cucumber, ginger relish.
Slurps and Sips - Pairings for oysters
Nova Scotia Traditional Method (TM) Sparkling Wine
The crisp, lively acidity of a Nova Scotia TM sparkling wine, when matched with the salinity of a fresh oyster, is a food and wine symphony of flavours.
Mark’s Pick(s): L’Acadie Vineyards Prestige Brut, Benjamin Bridge NV Brut, Lightfoot & Wolfville Blancs de Blanc
Chablis
Chablis and oysters are a deep-rooted pairing - literally. The Northern French wine region of Chablis, 140 million years ago, was under water. As the water receded over the millennia, soils rich in fossilized oyster beds emerged. While scientists would argue the fragmented fossilized oyster shells do not contribute flavour to the Chardonnay-based wines of the region, romantics, like myself, theorize there is an undeniable saline-like quality to the wines which make them ideal pairings to oysters.
Mark’s Pick(s): LaRoche ‘Saint Martin Chablis (NSLC), Brocard Chablis Sainte Claire (Bishop’s Cellar)
Sauvignon Blanc
Crisp, bright Sauvignon Blanc, particularly those from classic regions, such as Sancerre, or the cooler corners of Marlborough in New Zealand, have a verve and energy that suits oyster dishes.
Mark’s Pick(s): Jean Max Roger Cuvee GC Sancerre (Bishop’s Cellar)
Local Gin
The fresh herbal flavours of an artisanal gin will harmonize deliciously with this dish. Keep the cocktail simple and fresh, such as French 75 (gin, lemon juice, simple syrup, and sparkling wine).
Mark’s Pick(s): Compass Distillers Gin
Comments