Oysters: from poor person's food to luxurious delight

Oysters, like lobster, were once considered poor people’s food.

Over time, the lowly oyster graduated from seaside sustenance to white linen standard. An order of a dozen oysters is now more often used as a sign of wealth and decadence rather than a desire to explore the provenance and unique character oysters offer.

Once smothered in bright red cocktail sauce, as so often done, oysters lose their sense of terroir – or, in the case of seafood, their ‘merroir’ character. Merroir is a recently introduced term describing how the location of an oyster bed can be reflected in the unique taste of mollusc itself.

As the fascination with white linen restaurants fades and the rise of farm or sea to table restaurants rises, the provenance of seafood is more top of mind. One company that understands the importance of the who and where of seafood is Afishionado, a modern-style fishmonger located in Bedford.

Afisionado celebrates local seafood, adding something that was missing from the marketplace….a place where you can come learn stories about the fishermen who drive our economy….in local food, often there is not a lot of storytelling about those who work in our oceans.

HOW TO SHUCK OYSTERS

1. Wash your hands before starting.

2. Place oyster cup side down in the middle of a folded dishcloth and hold in position with your hand.

3. With your other hand, place the tip of the shucker’s blade in the hinge of the oyster.

Note: it’s not about the force but finding the right spot. Once you’ve found the natural divide between the top and bottom shell, wiggle your shucker with a little more force.

4. Once you feel the blade enter the oyster, turn it 90 degrees. This will open the oyster.

5. Pick up the oyster with your hand. Disconnect the top of the oyster from the shell by running the blade of the shucker between the shells.This will disconnect the upper part of the adductor muscle hold the oyster together.

6. Cut the bottom part of adductor muscle to remove the meat from the lower shell. Repeat until all oysters are shucked.

Note: If you break off a little shell while shucking, drain off a little liquid and the shell will come with it.

Pro Tip: Store your oysters cup side down to prevent the oysters from opening. Also, don’t store oysters in a closed container.

Shuck and savour: New ways to enjoy oysters

So now you know how to shuck an oyster, it’s time to enjoy them. While oysters are traditionally served raw, on the half shell, they do not have to be limited to being served with lemon wedges and store-bought hot sauce.

I like serving mine with a classic mignonette (diced shallot, red wine vinegar, and sugar), a European-style salsa verde (puree of parsley, garlic, lemon, capers, and sardines), or even a good homemade cocktail sauce (ketchup and prepared horseradish).

I also like frying oysters. One of my very favourite ways to panko-crusting and frying them. I hope you enjoy my interpretation of an oyster po’boy sandwich, and fried oysters with ginger cucumber relish.

Open Face Oyster Po’Boy

4 Servings

12 oysters, shucked 1/2 cup seasoned flour 1 egg + 1 tbsp water, beaten 3/4 cup panko Fresh thyme (optional) Vegetable oil 4 slices Parisian baguette, toasted Roasted garlic aioli Microgreens, for garnish Lemon wedges

Directions: Place flour, egg wash and panko in individual bowls. Add a little more flavour by adding fresh thyme to your panko but consider this an option, not a rule. One by one, dip an oyster in flour, then egg wash, then cover in panko. Repeat until all oysters are crusted with panko. Place a deep-sided pan over medium-high heat. Add enough oil to cover the bottom of the pan. When oil begins to smoke, add the oysters. Fry them until golden brown on each side. Remove from pan and set on a paper towel to drain excess oil. Place a tablespoon of aioli on a slice of baguette. Top with three oysters and microgreens. Squeeze a lemon wedge over top and season with salt. Repeat. To make the aioli, first puree one clove roasted garlic, one egg yolk and one tablespoon lemon juice until well combined. Slowly whisk in one cup of olive oil. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Oysters with Cucumber Ginger Relish  

4 Servings 

4 tbsp rice wine vinegar  4 tablespoons water  1/4 cup white sugar  1 clove garlic, minced  1 tablespoon of pickled ginger, minced  1 cucumber, finely chopped  1/8 cup finely minced red onion  12 Nova Scotia oysters  1/2 cup flour  Egg wash (2 eggs whisked with 1 tablespoon water) 3/4 cup panko Vegetable oil  

Directions: Put the vinegar, water and sugar in a pan. Bring to a boil, stirring to ensure sugar dissolves and remove immediately. Once cool, add garlic, ginger, and red onion.  Set aside. Wash the oysters in cool running water and scrub the shell with a soft brush. Shuck the oysters, removing the muscle attaching oyster to shell. Dip oysters in flour, then egg wash and finally panko. Heat oil in deep pot until 375 F. Fry oysters in hot oil until golden brown. To serve top each oyster with a tablespoon of cucumber, ginger relish.   

Slurps and Sips - Pairings for oysters

Nova Scotia Traditional Method (TM) Sparkling Wine

The crisp, lively acidity of a Nova Scotia TM sparkling wine, when matched with the salinity of a fresh oyster, is a food and wine symphony of flavours.

Mark’s Pick(s): L’Acadie Vineyards Prestige Brut, Benjamin Bridge NV Brut, Lightfoot & Wolfville Blancs de Blanc

Chablis

Chablis and oysters are a deep-rooted pairing - literally. The Northern French wine region of Chablis, 140 million years ago, was under water. As the water receded over the millennia, soils rich in fossilized oyster beds emerged. While scientists would argue the fragmented fossilized oyster shells do not contribute flavour to the Chardonnay-based wines of the region, romantics, like myself, theorize there is an undeniable saline-like quality to the wines which make them ideal pairings to oysters.

Mark’s Pick(s): LaRoche ‘Saint Martin Chablis (NSLC),  Brocard Chablis Sainte Claire (Bishop’s Cellar)

Sauvignon Blanc

Crisp, bright Sauvignon Blanc, particularly those from classic regions, such as Sancerre, or the cooler corners of Marlborough in New Zealand, have a verve and energy that suits oyster dishes.

Mark’s Pick(s): Jean Max Roger Cuvee GC Sancerre (Bishop’s Cellar)

Local Gin

The fresh herbal flavours of an artisanal gin will harmonize deliciously with this dish. Keep the cocktail simple and fresh, such as French 75 (gin, lemon juice, simple syrup, and sparkling wine).

Mark’s Pick(s): Compass Distillers Gin

Sicilian Sunshine in a Glass: Embrace Frappato This Summer

We are still 4 months away from the Halifax International Wine Festival. While we wait, let's 'Toast the Coast' with a light, refreshing, and vibrant red wine. While Beaujolais has long been celebrated for its ability to deliver a chillable, fruity red perfect for warm weather, there's another contender from Sicily that's making waves: Frappato. This charming, under-the-radar red wine is quickly becoming a favourite for those seeking a fresh and delightful summer sip. Let's dive into the Frappato pool and discover why it is the Beaujolais alternative you never new about.

What is Frappato?

We love showcasing new varietals at the Halifax International Wine Festival. One such one to discover is Frappato. Frappato is a native grape variety from Sicily, particularly thriving in the southeastern region around Vittoria. It is alternatively known as Frappato di Vittoria. Known for its light body, bright acidity, and aromatic profile, the Frappato grape varietal is often compared to Beaujolais’ Gamay for its easy-drinking and fruit-forward nature. While it traditionally complements Nero d’Avola in the Cerasuolo di Vittoria blend and sometimes blended with Nerello Mascalese, the star of Etna wines, Frappato shines brightly on its own, showcasing a unique personality that’s perfect for summer.

Why Frappato is Your New Summer Go-To

1. Fruity and Fresh: Much like Beaujolais, Frappato boasts an array of juicy red fruit flavors, such as cherry, raspberry, and strawberry. These vibrant notes are complemented by a hint of floral and herbal undertones, making each sip a refreshing burst of summer.

2. Light-Bodied and Chillable: Frappato’s light body and zippy acidity make it an excellent candidate for chilling. Serving it slightly cool (around 55-60°F) enhances its refreshing qualities, offering a delightful contrast to heavier reds that can feel too cumbersome in the heat.

3. Versatility in Pairing: Frappato’s bright acidity and fruit-forward profile make it a versatile wine for pairing. Whether you’re enjoying a light salad, or a selection of charcuterie, grilled fish such as salmon or tuna, or even a burger. Frappato complements a wide range of summer dishes effortlessly. It even holds its own with spicier fare, making it a great choice for barbecue gatherings.
   

Frappato vs. Beaujolais: A Comparison

Both Frappato and Beaujolais offer a delightful drinking experience that’s perfect for summer, but each brings its own unique flair:

• Flavour Profile: While both wines are fruit-forward, Frappato tends to lean more towards red cherries and berries with a subtle earthy and floral note, whereas Beaujolais often showcases more of a bubble-gum and banana aroma (especially in Beaujolais Nouveau) alongside its fruit flavors.

• Origin and Terroir: Frappato’s Sicilian roots mean it often carries a hint of Mediterranean herbs and a slight saline quality, reflecting its coastal terroir. Beaujolais, from the Burgundy region of France, often has a more mineral-driven backbone.

• Pairing Potential: Both wines are versatile, but Frappato’s bright acidity and subtle complexity can make it a bit more flexible, especially with richer or spicier dishes.
  

How to Enjoy Frappato This Summer

To get the most out of your Frappato experience, here are a few tips:

1. Chill It Right: Serve Frappato slightly chilled, around 55-60°F. This temperature highlights its refreshing acidity and fruitiness, making it incredibly refreshing.

2. Pair It Well: Try pairing Frappato with summer staples like grilled vegetables, seafood salads, and light pasta dishes. Its versatility means it can also stand up to heartier fare like grilled sausages or even spicy tacos.

3. Explore Different Producers: While Frappato is still gaining popularity, there are several producers crafting exceptional examples. Look for names like Arianna Occhipinti, COS, and Planeta, who are known for their high-quality Frappato wines.
   

A Toast to Frappato

As the days get longer and the temperatures rise, it’s time to expand your summer wine repertoire. Frappato, with its vibrant fruit, light body, and refreshing acidity, offers a delightful alternative to the classic Beaujolais. Whether you’re lounging by the pool, hosting a backyard barbecue, or enjoying a beachside picnic, Frappato is the perfect companion to elevate your summer wine experience.

So next time you’re in the mood for a chillable red, reach for a bottle of Frappato and let Sicily’s sunshine in a glass brighten your summer days. Cheers to discovering new favorites and savoring every moment of the season! See you at this fall's Halifax International Wine Festival and until then 'toast the coast' with a delicious summery red wine.

4 Frappato and Frappato-based Wines Available in HRM

1.       Tenute Orestiadi Frappato Terre Siciliane IGP Sicilia (Harvest, $28.00)

2.       Feudi di Tresa Frappato  Terre Siciliane IGP Sicilia (Bishops, $24.01)

3.       Caruso & Minini Terre di Giumara Frappato Nerello Mascalese  Terre Siciliane IGP Sicilia (Harvest, $24.99)

4.       Occhipinti SP68 Terre Siciliane IGP Sicilia (Frappato and Nero D’Avola)

Watch my review of my Wine of the Week pick, the Tenute Orestiadi Frappato

Where to Find the Best Pizza in Halifax: A Guide for Pizza Lovers

For the Love of Pizza: Halifax’s Best

Great artisanal pizza is an art form, combining the finest ingredients, expert technique, and a passion for perfection. For me, the foundation of any remarkable pizza lies in its crust. Good pizza dough is made from high-quality flour, water, yeast, and salt, allowed to ferment slowly, often for 2-3 days at a low temperature. This process helps develop a complex flavor and a chewy, airy texture, essential for an exceptional base. Great pizza makers take pride in their fermentation process. Once baked, the crust should be sturdy but not hard, flexible but not flimsy.

The sauce is another critical component. Made from ripe, fresh tomatoes, often San Marzano, and simple seasonings like sea salt, fresh basil, and a touch of garlic. To be honest, some of the best sauces are little more than crushed tomatoes. The sauce should be vibrant and slightly sweet, complementing the other ingredients without overpowering them, and vice versa, the sauce should not be overtaken by the toppings.

Cheese quality can make or break an artisanal pizza. Personally, I love the simple creaminess of fresh mozzarella, but a good pizza can be made from simply well-made mozzarella (not pre-grated) along with a sprinkling of aged cheeses like Parmigiano Reggiano or Pecorino Romano, both of which can add a depth of flavour and a delightful umami finish.

Toppings are where individuality comes into play, but I favor restraint rather than overindulgence. The simple addition of high-quality, fresh, and often locally sourced ingredients like heirloom tomatoes, locally cured meats, fresh herbs, and seasonal vegetables ensure each bite is a harmonious blend of flavors and textures.

Finally, baking in a wood-fired oven at high temperatures gives artisanal pizza its characteristic blistered, slightly charred crust, and perfectly melted toppings. This traditional method imparts a smoky flavor and a crisp, yet tender texture that is the hallmark of great artisanal pizza. The end result should be a pizza with a firm, sturdy but not inflexible crust, with a nice balance of cheese, a present and slightly sweet tomato sauce and if toppings are added, they should be flavorful but not overpowering.

Halifax’s 4 Best Artisanal Pizza Spots

1. Salvatore’s Pizzaiolo Trattoria salvatorespizza.ca 5541 Young Street, Halifax
   

2. Lou Pécou Pizzeria lou-pecou.ca 5567 Cunard Street, Halifax
   

3. Yeah Yeahs Pizza yeahyeahspizza.com 66 Ochterloney Street, Dartmouth and 2983 Oxford Street, Halifax
   

4. Tomavino’s Pizza tomavinos.ca 1113 Marginal Road, Halifax
   

For the Love of Pizza: 4 Red Wines to Pair with Thin Crust

It should come as no surprise that the best pizza pairings, at least in my mind, are Italian red wines. Less so, of course, for pizza topped with white sauce or no sauce at all. Surprisingly, for those without tomato sauce, I often recommend Traditional Method sparkling wines such as Champagne, Franciacorta, or Nova Scotia-made versions. However, for traditional tomato and mozzarella thin crust pizza, the best wines tend to be light to medium-bodied, slightly tangy (as most Italian reds are) and not overly tannic.

Frappato

Also known as Frappato di Vittoria, this grape varietal grown in Sicily has historically been blended with grapes such as Nero D’Avola or Nerello Mascalese. On its own, the grape produces wines with fresh floral and red berry aromas. The palate is light to medium-bodied and super fresh. Check out my ‘Wine of the Week’ pick for Tenute Orestiadi Frappato from Westside Beer Wine and Spirits in Clayton Park, Halifax.

Barbera D’Asti

Between Barbera D’Asti and Barbera D’Alba (both from Piemonte in Northern Italy), Asti versions tend to be fruitier, tangier, and often made with less oak influence. Great all-purpose and very food-friendly red wines. Check out Michele Chiarlo Barbera D’Asti from Bishop’s Cellar.

Chianti

While Chianti Classico, Chianti Classico Riserva, and the Sangiovese exclusive wines of Brunello di Montalcino are unquestionably Tuscany’s best Sangiovese-based reds, for pizza I prefer the simplicity of a good basic Chianti. With cherry-like fruit and some herbal notes, these fresh and vibrant red wines have enough tang to cut through the fattiness of the cheese of pizza but never overwhelm or cover up the flavors. Take a chance on Piccini Chianti Riserva from Harvest Wines and Spirits.

Lambrusco

The frizzante (lightly sparkling) wines of Emilia-Romagna are increasingly of better quality and tend to be drier than in the past. A perfect match to pizza, especially if the pizza has a little Prosciutto di Parma and Parmigiano Reggiano, both ingredients also from Emilia-Romagna. A great value choice is Chiarli Vecchi Modena Lambrusco di Sorbara from Bishop’s Cellar.